‘nina in Tbilisi 🇬🇪
I don’t reckon I can say Hello anymore in my post title ;) It’s our third week in Tbilisi and things don’t seem so strange anymore.
We know where to buy our groceries. We get a smile from the lady on the corner selling the freshest Lobiani’s. We still frustrate the guy down the street selling Puri’s. Daniel joined a gym, I continued my morning routine, went for a run and we are walking more confidently around the city.
Stranger no more - stronger once more
Yet nothing changed the buildings that seemed to need a fresh layer of paint 10 years ago is now somewhat fine. I remember our first walk here where I was waiting to see the “nice” area where buildings are painted, no scaffolding holding balconies up, no cracks and you know — “nicer”.
I soon realise that its human behaviour to compare something new to something old. As I did with Cape Town and Tbilisi because that’s what you know, that’s your reference point.
I tried to compare the “nice” areas is in Cape Town to the “nice” areas in Tbilisi — did I found it, somewhat but not entirely. I realised “nice” is subjective in my mind my only reference was to compare with what I knew. I even asked the hotel owner which areas are nice. Now I understand his puzzled reaction — “they are all nice” is what he told me. He’s right, and it’s not fair comparing these two totally different cities. I had a preconceived idea of what “nice” means to me. I was l looking to apply that same materialistic view to a city that’s historic in nature.
Earlier this week my friend asked me to tell her what’s different here — and that’s when I realised everything is. You won’t compare apples with pears would you now? So why do it know.
You know that old saying — Don’t judge a book by its cover — it’s true don't! The beauty lies once you open that book, start reading it and let it take you away into another world. The new “nice” is the freedom as a female to walk or run at night, taking the bus or subway being fearless. It adds another level of independence and you know what I’m sure there is much more to come!
Tbilisi Time
I feel I’m writing this post somewhat with a Tbilisi time mindset. I went for a morning run today at 10 am (Yes that’ like 8 am Tbilisi time ;) Early and late is perceived differently here.
Although I went for a morning run today earlier this week I was running at night. Totally unreal. It felt like I was “Emily in Paris” however I’m not Emily and this isn’t Paris and I’m not in a Netflix production but it sure felt pretty close to it! “I’m ‘Nina and this is Tbilisi.”
If you know me — I’m an early wake up kinda gal and going to bed when kids go to bed. Honestly, I thought I chose that routine. I soon realised my environment played the biggest role in that routine.
In SA I usually went to bed early cause you know you either end up watching Netflix or work till late. Plus you want to wake up early to get active. It makes sense you are most predominantly at home when its dark. You want to enjoy as much of the sun when it rises in the morning.
Here you go to bed late because you can be active, run be social and out at dark. Places close late too which makes it easy and convenient to do all these things till late. So yes your environment might change your routine — and that’s okay I still work, get to be active and social — and much less Netflix.
A note on safety
This was my first run here and running in the night might seem like a non-event. Well, let me tell you it’s not. Coming from the 3rd unsafest country to the 4th safest country in the world (2020 stats) you don’t go out after dark and as a female that’s not even a thought. You could say we always had an unofficial curfew. So YES! this is a big deal — running by myself in the dark mind blown🤯
I don’t think I will ever not be a little careful. It’s been homegrown for over 30 years. Case and point. When a car drove by I thought it might be following me. When I saw a carton box on the sidewalk I thought there might be a homeless person who is going to harass me. When there is no one in the street I kept on looking over my shoulder to make sure no one is going to grab me. Right, so I won’t’ be totally irresponsible but I can definitely ease up a bit.
I can only speak for where I lived and my experiences. I wouldn’t have guessed South Africa is the 3rd unsafest country in the world. To be totally honest I only found that out as I wrote this post. I remember thinking twice if I want to wear jewellery because it’s much easier (safe) to just not wear it. I knew it wasn’t the safest and you have to be more observant and careful but it’s not that bad or so I keep telling myself.
I won’t say you can ever become used to the crime but you seem to justify it in some unconscious ways. Ever heard when someone’s phone or laptop get stolen we justify the crime by saying things like you should’ve known better why did you walk with your phone/laptop where it can be seen. The reality is you gotta be safe by keeping safe and what I mentioned above you definitely shouldn’t do.
Why am I bringing this up because I never thought of crime until I didn't experience it anymore. It’s funny how that happens like when you always had peanut butter for breakfast on your oats and now I seem to think about it everytime I have breakfast and honestly I should stop thinking about it my oats is great I don’t need it.
Meeting the Locals
From dog tags, opening bank accounts and eating too much lobiani’s. We were immersing ourselves with the environment and people the past few weeks. We attended a *Hygge event at the Botanical gardens where we met local and international friends we played games, meditated and had good conversations.
*Hygge- a quality of cosiness and comfortable conviviality that engenders a feeling of contentment or well-being (regarded as a defining characteristic of Danish culture).
Wait dog tags? Yes, you heard right. So this is very interesting — everywhere you walk you feel that you have a dog as your pet. There are lots of homeless dogs here — disclaimer not what you thinking. These dogs are all tagged with numbers and have all their shots, trained to live in the city. They are well-fed and beautiful dogs. So the thing is they don’t keep them in shelters instead they train them to live in the city and the community feeds them. You will see dog food and water spots for them around the city. Once they mark you as their friend they will walk with you and protect you like you are their owner. It’s two-fold it’s hard to see so many homeless dogs but also I’m enjoying the friendliness of dogs every day and they don’t seem unhealthy or sickly.
I don’t have much to say about opening a bank account as it’s pretty simple besides that we could choose to have a purple bank card :) Yeah for lobiani’s you gotta come here to try yourself.
Short and sweet
Last thoughts before I wrap up this week. I’m posting this a bit later than usual — I don’t know Tbilisi time kicked in. I do feel this week have been more balanced between work and exploring. I’m also giving myself time to adjust to this new life.
My question to you this week is we all choose our “nice”. What’s your nice?
A cheery cheers
Anina & Daniel