Wine time in the oldest wine country of the world 🇬🇪
This weekend we decided that it’s time to put on our driving hats and take on the crazy roads of Georgia. Driving is probably like driving in India minus the animals on the road. Although I did see a cow on the main road to Kakheti.
The saying is Georgians don’t like to stop when driving. This literally means they will pass you even if there is an upcoming vehicle, you simply have to sway out of the way. If you don’t you might get fined — yes obstructing the vehicle to overtake.
To clarify these ain’t double lanes there’s only one lane going each direction and no “yellow line” or shoulder of the road either. Trucks pass trucks even if you can’t see ahead of you — by the look of the condition of their cars I get it now. The only positive thing they have going is no one speeds, they are very strict on that fact — police everywhere on the roads patrolling.
Somehow it works for them I haven’t seen or heard that there is a high vehicle accident rate. I call it irresponsible driving they call it excellent driving — which is what our driver said when he dropped us from the airport. 🤷♀️
Drivin’ me crazy 🚙
With this we rented a car — oh should I mention they also drive on the opposite side than South Africa — we drive on the left-hand side.
The morning of our first solo driving trip. We were totally amped for this adventure both fear and excitement combined.
The morning of the trip Daniel organised the Bolt that took us to the car rental place. He met with a lovely lady over Facebook who helped us with the rental and organised a wine tour for us. All the while she was sitting in Italy — on her voice note, you could hear the church bells in the background.
Of course, we first got a little lost and then we got into our car and we were ready to take off!
Daniel was the driver and I was the navigator. First stop gas station — they also have attendants so luckily we didn’t have to figure that out.
On the back roads of Tbilisi, we drove along the Tbilisi Sea (let’s just clarify this is an artificial lake) beautiful to see the city from this angle. It felt normal even though we were on a different side of the road. I also have to add that we had a right-hand drive instead of a left-hand drive (usually your steer would be the opposite side of your driving side) but hay we were ready for a challenge.
Outside the city it was breathtaking — green hills everywhere you look, sheep, cattle and poppies! As we almost reached our first destination we got pulled over by the cops. Yeah so that marks our first fine — what did we do wrong? We don’t know we can’t read the fine but after some googling seems we were obstructing the way. Remember when I mentioned that if a car wants to pass, you have to move to the side. So we assumed we didn’t give way to a car trying to pass — not sure but we will go with that for now.
We stopped at a wine shop and went for our first wine tour. (don’t worry Daniel was the designated driver so he didn’t have any) It’s pretty basic compared to South Africa. I mean we’ve been on a lot of these back in SA. They are much more in keeping it natural and rustic. We drank straight out of the stainless steel tanks — which is pretty cool. Then we bought some good wine at really good prices too.
After our wine stop, we headed to a small village called Signagi. Now, this was absolutely surreal. Before I get to that on our way there we stopped to see the poppies it’s a very popular flower here and it’s spread like a yellow and red blanket over the hills. While we stopped there I decided it’s time for me to take the wheel. When we arrived in Georgia I told Daniel we won’t be fully immersed in Georgian culture if you haven’t driven here. It was like putting on an old comfy pair of jean although the jean has holes and the car is automatic which I’m not used to. For some reason when I’m in another country I drive automatic which brings back memories of when I was in Thailand.
Back to Signagi, when we arrived it looks exactly like the pictures on google. It’s red-tiled roofs, cobblestoned road and Italian liked vibes. — if I’m to guess ;). When you arrive it’s like time is moving much slower, the peaceful and quiet atmosphere from this village is engulfing. We strolled through the market plain, ate churchkhela (nuts dipped in fruit — it looks like fruit candle to me ;) and admired the breathtaking views from high up in this village.
Then it was time to eat and lucky for us we stumbled upon this restaurant with a rooftop view overlooking the fields and town tower. We had delicious plant-based food. Nigvziani badrijani is becoming my favourite dish here! Basically, it’s thinly sliced roasted eggplant and rolled in a creamy spicy walnut paste topped with pomegranate seeds.
“In the midst of movement and chaos, keep stillness inside of you.”Deepak Chopra
The day had come to an end and we headed back to Tbilisi. Windows rolled down, listening to the CD (whoever left it in), passing green hills, fortress, road stalls and back into the city. This is a day we will cherish and remember — beautiful Georgia.
Africa, Holland or Saudi? 🌍
We’ve been asked if we are from Germany, Holland, Australia or other Balkan countries.
Whenever you say you are from South Africa firstly the “South” simply disappear. They only hear Africa and then secondly it’s so foreign to them that they even confirm with Saudi Arabia? 😂 However, I’ve actually met someone that’s been in South Africa. At first, I was sceptical but seems he played rugby for Georiga and went to SA on a rugby tour and played against SA. Which to his comment was SA is very strong in Rugby. 🏉 It’s rare so it’s definitely worth a mention.
Pondering thought 💭
We talked about the homeless dogs in Georgia and especially in Tbilisi. Of course, I should mention that these dogs are not aggressive and they are well trained to live in the city. It’s hard to ignore that homeless dogs are in better condition than homeless people in South Africa. There are dog food stations and dog houses on the sidewalk. The basic concept is that the community looks after the dogs and the street cleaners pick up the sh*t. I’m not saying this to compare dogs to humans I’m simply stating how the system works.
Yes, they have homeless people here too. Not a lot and not intimidating or aggressive at all they literally just sit or stand on the sidewalk with a can or hat for money. If they do ask it’s a once-off and that’s it. You will also see children in the metro trains selling candles for money. That’s about it — you really can’t even compare. However, homeless dogs are much more prevalent, it’s hard to understand why and how this system simply works and why are the dogs treated more humanely?
I’ve encountered homelessness every day constantly — have we become unempathetic? Have we separated ourselves from poverty and homelessness as a coping mechanism?
George from Georgia asked us this a while back and I couldn’t answer him. “Why is it that the poverty and unemployment in Georgia lead to different reactions?” They are also not a rich European country. They’ve been under the Soviet Union for years and are only recently independent with high unemployment rates and low income yet different outcome. My reaction is that things are much more complex but then are we also using complexity as an excuse to not get to the root cause?
“People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.”
Ralph Waldo Emerson
Tot volgende keer (Till next time)
Anina & Daniel
